Honey Yield Calculator

A full ten-frame deep super of honey weighs about ninety pounds. People plan the harvest around jars and labels and then discover the first real problem is getting the box off the stack and into the truck without putting it down on the grass.

Supers you intend to pull, not brood boxes
10 in a standard box, 8 in a narrow one, 9 if you spread frames to fatten the comb
Per super. Half a frame counts as 0.5. Outer frames are usually the ones left short.
Optional override. Blank uses a typical figure for the frame size shown below.
What actually reaches the bucket. Comb, extractor walls, the uncapping tank and the strainer all keep some.
Optional
Honey Yield Calculator — Frames, Pounds and Jars FilledBuildFigure

Why frame size is the input that decides everything

A honey estimate is one multiplication repeated, and almost all of the error in it sits in the pounds-per-frame figure. A deep frame is 9-1/8 inches tall and a medium is 6-1/4, so a deep holds roughly half again as much honey as a medium of the same length, and a shallow less again. The commonly quoted figures are about 6 to 8 lb for a fully drawn and capped deep frame, 4 to 6 lb for a medium and 3 to 4 lb for a shallow. This calculator starts from the middle of each of those ranges and lets you override it, because your own figure from last season, worked backwards from what you actually bottled, beats any published one.

The other reason the ranges are wide is comb thickness. Bees will draw honey comb well past the depth of a brood cell if you give them room, which is why some beekeepers run nine frames in a ten-frame honey super and space them evenly. Fat combs uncap more easily and hold more per frame, so a nine-frame super can carry as much as a ten-frame one. Set frames per super to 9 and raise the per-frame figure if that is how you run.

Weight and volume, and why the two get confused

Honey is bought and sold by weight everywhere, and yet everything about handling it is volumetric — buckets, extractors, bottling tanks. The conversion is that honey runs about 11.84 lb per US gallon, which is the figure this calculator uses. That works out to roughly 2.96 lb in a quart and 1.48 lb in a pint. Density drifts a little with moisture content and temperature, so treat those as planning figures rather than as a basis for filling retail containers.

ContainerHoney by weightNote
1 US gallonabout 11.84 lbThe standard figure for honey near 18% moisture
1 quartabout 2.96 lbA quart jar labelled 3 lb is honest
1 pintabout 1.48 lbSold as a 1.5 lb jar
5 gallon pailabout 59 lbPlus the pail. This is a two-hand lift.

The container sizes in the calculator are net weight in ounces, which is what goes on the label. A jar sold as a 1 lb jar holds 16 oz of honey by weight and looks under-filled to anyone used to seeing water in glass, because honey is about 1.4 times as dense as water.

Extraction efficiency is not a rounding error

The gross figure in the comb and the figure in your bucket differ by more than most people allow for. A radial extractor leaves a film on every comb it spins, the uncapping tank holds honey in the wax until it drains, and a fine strainer holds more. Ninety to ninety-five percent is a fair working range for a small hobby setup, and it improves if you let cappings drain warm for a few days and add that back. Setting the efficiency to 100 gives you the comb figure, which is useful for knowing what the colony made but not for knowing how many jars to order.

None of that honey is lost in any real sense. It comes back as cappings to render, which is the input to the beeswax and foundation calculator, and as wet supers the bees will clean up.

Deciding what to leave behind

The number this calculator does not produce, and cannot, is how much of the crop is yours to take. That is a question about what the colony needs to hold through the season ahead, and it depends on your climate, the colony, the forage still to come and what your winters do. Weighing the hive rather than guessing at it is the reliable approach, and the winter hive weight calculator separates the stores from the equipment tare so you have a real number to work from. Beekeepers in your county, your state apiary inspector and your local association know what a hive there needs to carry; a figure from a different climate is worse than no figure.

If you are scaling up rather than harvesting more from the same colonies, the hive equipment and split planner works out how many boxes and frames the target colony count actually needs, and it is usually more than people budget for.

Questions people ask

How much honey does one frame hold?

A fully drawn and capped deep frame is commonly quoted at 6 to 8 lb, a medium at 4 to 6 lb and a shallow at 3 to 4 lb. The spread within each range comes mostly from comb thickness. Bees draw honey comb deeper than brood comb when frames are spaced wider, so a nine-frame super in a ten-frame box can hold as much honey as ten thinner combs. Partly capped frames are the other source of error: a frame capped across two thirds of its face holds roughly two thirds of the figure, and the calculator lets you enter fractional frames for that reason. The single best figure is your own, taken by weighing a super before and after extraction one year and dividing.

How many pounds of honey are in a gallon?

About 11.84 lb per US gallon, which makes a quart roughly 2.96 lb and a pint about 1.48 lb. Honey is roughly 1.4 times as dense as water, so volume intuition built on water is consistently wrong. The exact density moves with moisture content and temperature, and honey at 16% moisture is a little heavier than honey at 18.5%, but the difference over that range is well under a pound per gallon. Sell and label by weight regardless. A five-gallon pail holds about 59 lb of honey plus the pail, which is worth knowing before you fill one on a shelf.

Why is my extractor yield lower than the calculator says?

Set the extraction efficiency down. Ninety-two percent is the default here and it is not conservative for a small tangential extractor, cold honey or a fine strainer. Cold honey is the biggest single factor; below about 80 F it runs slowly enough that a normal spin leaves a lot in the comb, which is why warm rooms are worth the trouble. The rest sits in the uncapping tank, on the extractor wall and in the strainer, and much of it comes back if you let everything drain for a few days somewhere warm. What does not drain out is wax stock rather than a loss.

Can I harvest frames that are not fully capped?

It depends on moisture, and that is a measurement rather than a judgement call. Bees cap honey once they have evaporated it down to a point where it will not ferment, so capping is their signal that the frame is finished. Uncapped nectar mixed into a bucket of good honey raises the moisture of the whole batch, and honey above roughly 18 to 18.5 percent moisture is at risk of fermenting in the jar. A refractometer costs less than a ruined bucket. The shake test, where you hold a frame horizontally and shake it to see whether nectar flies out, tells you a frame is definitely not ready but does not tell you it is.

What does a full super weigh?

The calculator gives a figure at the bottom of the results, and for a ten-frame deep full of capped honey it is around ninety pounds. A ten-frame medium is roughly sixty, and a shallow around forty-five. Those include the box and the comb, not just the honey. There is no handhold on a Langstroth box beyond a shallow routed grip, the load is high and away from your body, and the box below it is often stuck down with propolis so it comes free suddenly. Most beekeepers who run deeps for honey stop doing so after a season or two. Pulling frames into an empty box carried separately turns one ninety pound lift into ten nine pound ones.

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